Submitted by: Kimberly
Email: you know it
Tip:
Use up those old dryer sheets! If you use the fabric type of dryer sheets, save them to use for applique. Then all you have to do is face one right side together with your applique shape, sew about 1/8" seam allowance. Then, very carefully snip a hold in the dryer sheet. You will then flip the applique piece right-side out through that hole. Be sure to smooth out the seam allowance and press. To go one step further, once the applique piece is nice and pressed, you can turn it over and trim out the excess dryer sheet.
What you are left with is a "needle-turned" applique piece. Pin or glue baste it to your background fabric, and machine or hand applique stitch it in place. Kewl huh?

Submitted by: Not Provided
Email: Not Provided
Tip:

Submitted by: Not Provided
Email: Not Provided
Tip:

Submitted by: Kimberly
Email: webmistress AT quiltpox DOT com
Tip:
When trimming your quilt sandwich, leave about 1/8" extra past the binding attachment. That is, an extra 1/8" batting all the way around the quilt. Then, wehn you fold the binding to the back to stitch it down, the bulk of that extra 1/8" will fill in the binding so it doesn't seem to hang loosey-goosey.

Submitted by: SueAnn Bogue
Email: sueannbogueATcoxDOTnet
Tip:
Bias Binding Tutorial ... thanks for the detail...I've read about this method before, but couldn't make it work. Now it makes more sense.and I'm going to try it for a middle border and binding from the same fabric and same width.

Question: I cannot launch the binding calculator....can you help? What do I need to make it work? Is this the same calculator that is being sold at quilt stores now? Can you help me out with the following to determine if I have enough yardage on hand....

Sizes I am cutting are from 40+ wide flannel and I have 1-1/3 yards ... do I need more?

59 X 68 @ 2.5 inches wide - inner border
76 X 85 @ 2.5 inches wide - binding.

Thanks again ... and for your help.

Submitted by: SueAnn Bogue
Email: sueannbogueATcoxDOTnet
Tip:
Bias Binding Tutorial ... thanks for the detail...I've read about this method before, but couldn't make it work. Now it makes more sense.and I'm going to try it for a middle border and binding from the same fabric and same width.

Question: I cannot launch the binding calculator....can you help? What do I need to make it work? Is this the same calculator that is being sold at quilt stores now? Can you help me out with the following to determine if I have enough yardage on hand....

Sizes I am cutting are from 40+ wide flannel and I have 1-1/3 yards ... do I need more?

59 X 68 @ 2.5 inches wide - inner border
76 X 85 @ 2.5 inches wide - binding.

Thanks again ... and for your help.

Submitted by: Kimberly
Email: Not Provided
Tip:
I have learned a few tricks about fabric buying over the years. Fabric quality can be a very tricky thing. But, the one tip I use the most, and seldom fails me, is the light test. When at the store, hold the single layer of fabric up to a light source. Then, hold your hand behind it. If you can make out everthing on your hand (especially helpful to be wearing jewelry), it is likely poor quality fabric. If you can barely see through the fabric, or just a shadow of your hand, then it is a safe bet it is a nice quality fabric. Easy huh?

Submitted by: Wilma Young
Email: young35@gmail.com
Tip:
To find the right side of solid fabric check the selvage for the little holes. The smooth side is the wrong side and the side with the hole "bumps" is the right side.

Submitted by: Kimberly
Email: Not Provided
Tip:
Don't like the stiff feel that you can get with fusible applique? Then do what I do on large pieces. First, trace your applique shape as normal on the fusible. Cut out the shape about 1/8" away from that line. Next, BEFORE you fuse it onto your fabric, trim out the inside of the fusible shape leaving only about 1/4" of fusible next to the drawn line. (Does that make sense? You will have 1/8" fusible on the outside of the line, and 1/4" on the inside.) Then simply fuse to your fabric, trim on the drawn line, and fuse to your background as normal.

Submitted by: Kimberly
Email: Not Provided
Tip:
When strip piecing, don't try to sew the entire WOF (40") strip. It is very difficult to get the seam not only sewn straight and even, but pressed correctly. Instead, create shorter strips using only 1/2 of the WOF. You may have a tiny bit more waste, but it is sooo much easier to control. :-)

Submitted by: Valerie Bradley
Email: val at synthcom dot com
Tip:
When attaching my final border, I am sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of each line of stitching. This ensures that the borders are locked into place and the whole quilt top is nice and stable when it is time to quilt it.

Submitted by: Not Provided
Email: Not Provided
Tip:
When doing some power sewing, lay a scrap piece of batting next to your machine. As you snip threads, drop them there. It will hold them from flying all over. When one side is filled, flip it. When both sides are filled, either pitch it, or pull off the threads.

Submitted by: Pat C
Email: myplace305@yahoo.com
Tip:
When sewing a lot of dark & light fabric strips,use a quilt rack to hold the strips. Makes it easy to choose the next one.

Submitted by: Kimberly
Email: Not Provided
Tip:
When you purchase new curtains or other linens, they usually come in little zipper bags. Save these bags to use for organizing projects.

Submitted by: Kimberly
Email: Not Provided
Tip:
Don't spend a lot of money on those "craft project" style envelopes. Just go to your nearest office supply store. They sell wonderful see-through vinyl-ish envlopes that work well for storing blocks and patterns.

Submitted by: Dawn
Email: Not Provided
Tip:
The plastic shoe boxes with lids are the perfect size to store 2 columns of 5" squares. (In case you are saving for a nickel quilt.)

Submitted by: Wanda White
Email: blkcat1@aol.com
Tip:
I use alot of different size needles and some don't have the identifying color on them. I use my colored nailpolish to mark them and then mark the package with the same color. I even make an index card with the colors and reference the size it represents.

Submitted by: brenda
Email: wi.dragonflyAThotmailDOTcom
Tip:
squash your pincushion into as small jar or hot glue it to a small decorative plate so you can put pins into it without it turnuing or tipping

Submitted by: None Provided
Email: Not Provided
Tip:
Those little hangers that come from the store when you buy shorts, slacks, etc: the plastic ones with metal clips, make great hangars for holding the plastic stencils for quilt designs.

Submitted by: Kimberly
Email: Not Provided
Tip:
Having issues with thread breakage? Try Sewer's Aid. I had purchased this very lovely hand-dyed Valdani thread, but oh boy did my machine not like it. Finally, after fussing with it 3/4 of the way through the quilt, I remembered to try Sewer's Aid. Thread didn't break again!

Submitted by: Kimberly Again
Email: Not Provided
Tip:
Be consistent with your rulers when cutting for a project. I use the Shape N Cut ruler when doing lots of strips. But invariably, my seam allowances come up between 1/16th and 1/8th" variance. That is fine if I didn't try to use my omnigrid ruler to cut the HSTs. So, since there are slight variations, which can be huge when piecing many pieces, use the same ruler consistently through your project.

Submitted by: Not Provided
Email: Not Provided
Tip:
When cutting multiple strips of the same dimensions with the Shape Cut ruler, put masking tape over the non-used measures so you don't accidentally cut at the 3" mark when you meant the 2" mark. (Ask me how I came up with this one!)

Submitted by: Marilyn
Email: MarLeClair@hotmail.com
Tip:
Use one of the rubber stoppers used for knitting needles on your small delicate sissors. Will save the points on them when closed.

Submitted by: Not Provided
Email: Not Provided
Tip:
When rotary cutting many strips at a time, keep the ruler level by leaving at least one strip on the non-cutting side of the ruler. This helps to keep the ruler from shifting when you cut because it can't "flop down" to the side of the fabric edge.

Submitted by: MrsGreen
Email: Not Provided
Tip:
If your quilt shop lets customers take home the center cardboards from fabric bolts, grap a few! So far I have found two uses: 1) a straight pin holds stacks of blocks quite neatly on it while you are working on a quilt and 2) to wrap wonder under yardage (and other types of fusible fabrics) around to prevent the folds that make them difficult to use. Oh, and the original function, to hold large amount of yardage on, for example when you buy the backing fabric ahead of time.

Submitted by: Wilma Young
Email: young35@gmail.com
Tip:
When running a dowel or small curtain rod through the channel of (for example) a sheer curtain, I have found that a thimble on the end of the rod helps it slide through, without any snags. Works great on any kind of fabric!